by Jacqui Birchall
(click on images to enlarge)

Check out the new kid on the block, Barra Gitano (Gypsy Bar) at Bute and Davie. It is a spectacular addition to the neighbourhood. Situated at the old Hamburger Mary’s / Mary’s on Davie location, Barra Gitano’s interior and patio are stunning in design, comfort and attractiveness.

**BarRa Gitano partners (from left) Erik, Francisco and John.** *(Photo Courtesy of BarRa Gitano)*

Barra Gitano has a solid pedigree. It is owned by three chefs, John Crook, Erik Heck and Francisco Higareda, the owners of the very successful Flying Pig, Ophelia and Monarca restaurants. This pedigree is apparent in the menu choices, the delicious food, the quality of their cocktails and wine, and the wide variety of tequila and mezcal.

As noted on their website, “Casual, south of the border cuisine, culture and style has a new home in the heart of Vancouver’s vibrant West End neighbourhood.”

An interview with one of the owners, the charming and enthusiastic John Crook, revealed much. The three owners have extensive chef and business experience. Crook and Higareda also have international chef experience. Crook and Heck met while working as chefs at Joe Fortes and their partnership continued at Glowball Grill and Satay Bar. Crook worked hard, learning all aspects of the hospitality industry, in different locations while preparing to open his own restaurant.

Crook and Heck later decided to open a restaurant together, The Flying Pig was created, where they hired Higareda as the sous chef. Higareda later became the executive chef at Wildtale in Yaletown, where he had more creative control, allowing him to showcase his extensive talents.

Crook and Heck decided they had to open a restaurant featuring the very creative Higareda. That was Ophelia, now a Michelin-recommended restaurant. The creation of Monarca-Cocina Mexicana followed, with Higareda as their third business partner.

**Servers Oscar and Marie under the watchful eye of Saiker's Mural.**

Crook shared that he and Heck used to live in the West End and always wanted to open a bar in the neighbourhood, and so Barra Gitano was created. Why the name? Crook tells me that Higareda is very gypsy-like in his travels around the world. And the stunning interior? Designed by Higareda and Heck. The beautiful mural is by Mexican muralist and tattoo artist Saiker, who has created the murals in all their restaurants. The owners tell him their vision and Saiker creates. There are always eyes in his murals.

The 60-seat Barra Gitano has a 40-seat heated patio and offers a happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to closing. At the time of writing, they are offering delicious margaritas for $6. The happy hour menu includes four kinds of tacos, chipotle fries, chips with guacamole and quesabirria, a very nice Chilean wine, Viña Chocalán, red and white, at $7 for a six-ounce serving, a Gitano margarita for $9.75, and lager from Russell Brewing for $5.75.

I enjoyed the salsa quemada, a roasted salsa. Delicious. The scallop and prawn tostadas are a delight in their delicacy and the roasted cauliflower with paprika aioli, serrano lime soy and toasted pumpkin seeds is stunning both in appearance and taste.

The birria noodle soup is very popular, Crook shared. The dish features Mexican chile braised beef brisket, beef and pork broth, ramen noodles, corn, marinated bean sprouts, onion, cilantro egg and bamboo shoots.

As one explores the menu it becomes apparent that while Ophelia and Monarca are classically Mexican, Barra Gitano is pushing the boundaries, introducing a variety of international ingredients such as Tiradito de Atun, a mouth-watering combination of tempura tuna tataki, shiso, nori, pineapple ponzu jus, avocado, red onion, cucumber and fried leeks. Guajillo prawns are served with wine chorizo and truffle mashed potatoes showing Higareda’s Spanish influence.

And of course the tacos: pork belly, lengua, fish, and plant-based. Perfection.

**roasted cauliflower with paprika aioli, serrano lime soy and toasted pumpkin seeds.**

Chef Francisco Higareda oversees the kitchen and Chef Daniel Aguilar manages the day-to-day operations.

All three owners used their expertise to create the cocktail and wine selection. Chatting with John Crook it became apparent why the three chef-owners are so successful. Crook loves the restaurant business. “You own a business because you love it, it is innately in you, you love every aspect. There is an intimacy in having great service.” He adds that customers come for the food but also come back because of the good service. “Food has to be the best, but great service brings people back!”

And the service is wonderful. I like to sit at the bar and chat to the staff and so far I have had the opportunity to meet Cristobal, Natcho, Oscar and Maria, all extraordinarily personable and attentive. Barra Gitano, also a great place to practice one’s Spanish!

Higareda is working with the Mexican Consulate in the hope of bringing more Mexican ingredients with less red tape. They would like to increase the choice of tequilas and mezcals available in Vancouver.

Look forward to September and the introduction of their brunch menu.

The Coordinates:
Barra Gitano
1202 Davie Street
604-563-0420
website